Electricity in the R-Pod
The modern world runs on several different kinds of electricity. The R-Pod uses two of them: 12v DC and 120v AC. This information is based on what I know about our 2017 RP171 R-Pod travel trailer and, of course, your own trailer may be different.
12v DC
Towing
There are two 12v DC systems on the trailer. The first provides the lighting and brake function necessary to tow the trailer and is almost completely separate from the 2nd system. It is implemented through the electrical connector that is part of the towing hook-up with the vehicle. Unless modified, it has a 7 connector pig-tail that plugs into the tow vehicle.
In addition to the ground wire, tail/running lights, turn/brake lights, back-up lights and brake controller output, there is a connector providing 12v power to the other trailer 12v system.
The image(https://www.etrailer.com/question-363.html) depicts the connector socket on the tow vehicle. On the left is the view into the socket, and on the right are the screw terminals at the back of the socket.
Lighting etc.
The second system is based on the battery almost entirely(with two exceptions). In the R-Pod it powers the overhead lights, the furnace fan and thermostat heat mode, the refrigerator and water heater control function, the entertainment center(radio, etc.), and the DC power for the refrigerator.
The battery stores enough electricity to run these systems for a limited time. Many trailer owners have multiple larger batteries to extend the time it can be used without re-charging.
120v AC
The 120v AC system requires a source, usually by plugging in the 'shore-power' cord to a 120v, 30 amp AC outlet in a campground. Alternative sources are generators or inverters that may not provide 30 amps.
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| 30 Amp Flush Mount Receptacle, 125V, TT-30R (image is upside down) |
The AC is required for the air conditioner, television, refrigerator(AC mode), numerous outlets inside and outside the trailer and the power center.
Power center
The power center has three functions: fuses(12v DC), circuit breakers(120v AC), and a battery charger. The battery charger function also provides sufficient 12v DC to also operate the trailers 12v DC systems while charging the battery. The fuses and circuit breakers are necessary to prevent potential circuit overloads from being a problem.
Fuses and circuit breakers
Blown fuses(12v) and tripped circuit breakers(120v) are almost never source of an electrical problem. Which is why replacing fuses or resetting the breaker may not 'fix' them. They are designed to prevent an electrical short that could make wiring overheat and potentially cause a fire.
For your general knowledge: in addition to the 12v DC fuses in the power center, there are 12v DC circuit breakers under the trailer between the battery and the power center.
Wiring
Hidden behind the floor, walls and cabinets are many wires providing power to the appliances, etc. It needn't be said that improper wiring connections(12v DC to 120v AC) could be catastrophic.Circuits and appliances
All of the overhead lights are 12v DC in the R-Pod, but as delivered there were no 12v DC outlets that would power 12v fans for the charging plugs needed for phones, etc.
Heating/Cooling
The 'furnace' uses propane to provide heat, but 12V DC is required to run the fan and control it through the thermostat.The air conditioner runs on 120v AC but may also require 12v DC to the thermostat to control it.
The water heater uses either propane or 120v AC to heat the water, but 12v DC is required to control it. A switch to turn it on/off is in the 'monitor'.
Water pump and storage tanks
The water pump is 12v DC and has a pressure switch to maintain pressure in the water system. When connected to 'city water' in a campground, the water pump is unnecessary and may be turned off.
The status of holding tanks is reported by a monitor panel that also contains switches to control the water pump and water heater.
Refrigerator/microwave
The microwave oven requires 120v AC and is plugged into an outlet behind the unit.
The refrigerator uses propane, 120v AC, or 12v DC to heat a refrigerant that lowers the temperature inside the 'box' as it condenses. The control board uses 12v DC and the 'mode' must be selected manually. It is almost always run in 120v AC mode, although propane may be selected when AC is unavailable. When the 12v DC mode is selected, it will drain the battery very quickly. The tow vehicle's 12v supply may not be sufficient. While towing, it's often desirable to run the refrigerator. Running it on propane is somewhat dangerous because there is an open flame behind the unit. Whenever in a refueling(gas) station, the propane should be turned off. Using 12v DC while towing risks 'forgetting' to turn it off when parking, even for brief periods.
Television and entertainment center.
Most of the entertainment system functions use 12v DC: radio, cd, bluetooth, clock. But the television requires 120v AC and is plugged in by the satellite/cable/antenna connection. It's possible to find televisions that are powered by 12v DC.120v AC outlets
There are 120v AC outlets throughout the trailer, inside and outside, to power various plug-in appliances: coffee makers, heaters, battery chargers, lights, etc. Ours seem to be on one circuit that is controlled by a GFCI(ground fault circuit interrupter). We have two outlets under the sink/stovetop, by the bed, and outside.Things to know
Plugging in to campground or other outlets.
120v AC is polarized in that of the three connectors, one is 'hot', one is 'neutral' and the third is a ground. For safety, it's important that the electrical connection is correct.
30 Amps
The 120v AC system and electrical cords are designed for 30 amps. But it hardly ever actually carries 30 amps. So it's possible by using adapters to plug in to 15/20 amp outlets without tripping a breaker in the supply circuit(not the trailer circuit). By running one or two items at a time, it's possible to charge the battery, operate the refrigerator, or even the air conditioner from a 15/20 amp circuit. It's also possible, but a poor idea, to use adapters and a 15 amp extension cord from a 30 amp outlet to the trailer.
12v DC sockets
I needed a 12v DC socket for my CPAP that I use while sleeping when we are without 120v AC('boondocking'). I found an unused 12v DC circuit in the power center and connected wiring to it for that purpose. Since then I have connected 2 more 12v DC sockets and 5v USB ports to the same circuit.
120v AC outlets
I wanted to use a multiple outlet adapter with USB ports on one of the trailer outlets. In the house, it would have replaced the outlet cover and screwed to the outlet itself. In the trailer, because the outlet is an integrated box and cover too, there was no way to screw the adapter securely to the outlet. I ended up removing the trailer outlet and installing a electrical box, outlet and the adapter. In retrospect, it would have been better to use an outlet that incorporates the USB ports in the new box instead of using the adapter.
Electric heater
I now have a small electric heater that is much, much quieter than the 'furnace'. I usually put it under the table where it is only in the way part of the time. But it plugs into one of the outlets under the sink/cooktop and the cord is a problem. I'd like to have an outlet under the table, but I haven't figured out how to get that to work yet.
Cordless drill
I bring a cordless drill with a 3/4" socket to quickly put the stabilizer jacks up and down. I have to recharge the battery occasionally and often plug the charger into the outlet outside the unit where it's out of the way, but in the weather. Perhaps an outlet in the storage compartment would help?
Solar
The trailer has a 'solar' connection at the rear of the trailer that apparently is a direct connection to the battery at the front of the trailer. I don't have any solar cell panels, but if I get one, I'll want to know more about the size of the wire and the need for a controller. But it is another way to recharge the battery while off-the-grid.
